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It has been several months since my last Brazilian Blowout.  It's supposed to be nice spring weather were I live, but summer decided to ...

Review: Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil

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4 Comments

It has been several months since my last Brazilian Blowout.  It's supposed to be nice spring weather were I live, but summer decided to come early.  It has been hot, humid, rainy, and miserable.  My hair seems to agree - so I decided to give another Home DIY Keratin Treatment a try.

DIY Keratin Treatment
at Home

Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil | DIY Home Keratin Treatment


INFO SHEET


Brand:  Keratin Research
Product:  Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil
Scent:  Terrible!  This product contains formaldehyde so please don't try to smell it. 
Price:  $39.95 per 120ml bottle (includes 120ml bottle of Clarifying Shampoo)
Where to Buy:  AmazonKeratin Research

I'm accustomed to getting keratin treatments on my hair and have been getting it done for years.  The brands I am most familiar with is Brazilian Blowout and Peter Coppola.  Brazilian Blowout is the best treatment I have ever had, and I typically get it done once per year.  

I previously tried a DIY keratin treatment using Keratin Research's INVERTO ONE and had good results.  However, I ultimately went back to getting a Brazilian Blowout at the salon because it lasts longer.  I believe this is because Brazilian Blowout contains formaldehyde and the Keratin Research INVERTO ONE treatment does not.  Formaldehyde simply acts as a better fusing agent compared to INVERTO ONE's Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine.

However, Keratin Research's Original Keratin Hair Treatment seemed interesting to me.  It contains formaldehyde like Brazilian Blowout does in addition to having Argan Oil which my hair really likes.  I was wondering what the results would be like with this formula and decided to give Keratin Research another try.  Let's take a look at the ingredients:


INGREDIENTS 


Once again, the full ingredients list were not listed on the website; so I had to obtain them directly from the bottle.  

Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil | Ingredients List


Aqua (water), Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Bromide, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Formaldehyde, Mineral Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl (protein), Petrolatum, Cocos nucifera (Coconut) oil, Argania Spinosa (Moroccan Argan oil), Amodimethicone, Dimethiconol, Acetamide MEA, Panthenol, Sorbitol, Sodium Cocoyl Collagen Amino Acids, Cocoyl Sarcosine, Wheat Germ, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat Germ) Oil, Linolenic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Sulfur, Polysorbate-80, Oleth-10, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba Seed Oil), formaldehyde, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Cyclopentasiloxane

Woof.  I can tell right off the bat that safety precautions are required when working with this product, but it does contain the two main factors for an effective DIY keratin treatment:  A fusing agent and keratin:  

  • Formaldehyde - Helps create a cross link between the keratin which naturally occurs in your hair and the new keratin from the treatment.  This fusing agent essentially helps the keratin bind to your hair.  IT WILL CREATE FUMES.
  • Hydrolyzed Keratin - Often derived from sheep's wool, these protein molecules penetrate the hair shaft to help enhance the interior cortex and thus changing the hair's shape.  

In addition to the essentials, I've found the formula also contains other goodies that my hair might like:

  • Cetrimonium Bromide - A smoothing agent that helps reduce frizz and increase shine.
  • Sunflower Seed Oil - This oil helps boost hair hydration while also reducing frizz.
  • Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl (protein) - aka Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Improves hair texture and manageability. 
  • Petrolatum - aka Petroleum Jelly. Helps seal the hair shaft and protect it from breakage.
  • Cocos nucifera (Coconut) oil - Helps reduce hair protein loss.
  • Argania Spinosa (Moroccan Argan oil) - Reduces frizz and helps the hair retain moisture.
  • Wheat Germ - Oil rich in fatty acids that increases hair moisture and softness.
  • Linolenic & Linoleic Acid - Reduces water loss and stimulates hair growth.
  • Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba Seed Oil) - This ingredient is rich in vitamins and minerals which helps strengthen the hair.  
  • Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans - Increases hair moisture retention.

It's important to note that due to the nature of these ingredients (formaldehyde, sulfur, proteins) this treatment should be done sparingly.  In fact, if keratin treatments in general are performed too often, the hair can be overloaded with protein and actually cause breakage.  This is why I only do keratin treatments approximately once per year, because I want to be sure the treatment is completely worn off before get it done again.  

It has a creamy, conditioner-like formula.


In summary, significant safety precautions will be required when using Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil.  The ingredients contain the essential building blocks for an effective DIY keratin treatment, on top of many other ingredients that help moisturize, smooth, and protect the hair.


PREPARATION


Materials by order of use:  


THE PROCESS


For reference, I have virgin 2c / 3a curly hair that is 21 inches (53 cm) from root to tip.  My last Brazilian Blowout was approximately nine months ago.  Note I do use oVertone on a few grey strands in my bangs, but have not dyed the rest of my head.  

Since my hair is long, I actually bought the 120 ml bottle (that came with the clarifying shampoo) AND a 300 ml bottle.  I wasn't sure how much I would need, because when I did the INVERTO ONE treatment I used two 160 ml bottles.  Better to have some left over for the future than running out mid-treatment!

After reading through the instructions, I realized that this treatment is old-school.  The older keratin treatments worked great, but there was no rinsing involved at the end.  Hair had to be kept dry and unbound for 72-hours.  That means no tying the hair back, as it could develop a kink as the treatment set.  Wet hair / kinks needed to be ironed out immediately.  

This treatment is old school a la 2008 - but should still be effective!


STEP 1:  Clarify & Dry
Before hopping in the shower, I brushed out my hair to detangle it before washing.   I found that this helps prevent knots when I wash my hair with the clarifying shampoo (it smells like apples!).  I gently massage the clarifying shampoo into my hair to try to avoid making more knots until it is thoroughly cleaned.  The instructions say to shampoo twice, so I did.  Since it is difficult to detangle the hair without conditioner, slowly and gently detangled it under running water until no more tangles are present.  This will make the next few steps a lot easier.  

After washing, I wrapped my hair in a turbie twist for about 10 minutes remove the excess water.  Using a detangling comb, I blow dried my hair using a T3 Cura Luxe Hair Dryer with medium heat until it was 100% dry and free of tangles.  I did not do this last them when using the INVERTO ONE treatment, and it was a mistake because having detangled hair really helps with even distribution of product.  Since the Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil contains formaldehyde, I don't want to use more product than needed (too much product = excess fumes).

Step 1:  Wash with a Clarifying Shampoo and Blow Dry


STEP 2:  Application 
Safety Precautions Activate!:  KN-95 Mask ON!  Gloves ON!  Cape ON!  I set up a floor mirror in my living room with the sliding glass door all the way open.  I also turned on the ceiling fan to full speed, air conditioner constantly running, and set up a floor fan blowing from behind me aiming outside.  My stylist would sometimes put some cheap plastic glasses on during this step for Brazilian Blowouts, but I don't own any.  Also wanted to note that her salon didn't have open windows, but she did have a very large air purifier and fan. 

Safety is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT.  It's going to smell bad - like car exhaust.  Without proper ventilation and masking, eyes and throat will burn.  It will not be a fun time.  I did try using a cloth mask for this step, but the KN-95 provided significantly more protection. 

I poured the Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil in a silicone bowl and parted my hair.  Using the same technique as before, I took half-inch sections and applied the product with the applicator brush; coming within 1cm of the scalp without touching it.  I then ran the section between my fingers to squeeze out excess product; followed by a fine-toothed comb.  I would wipe off the comb between each pass, until the excess was greatly reduced (this wouldn't have been possible if I didn't detangle in the last step).  I did this because once again, excess product = excess fumes. 

I was sure to be gentle when combing my hair to avoid breakage.  When did unloop the mask around one ear at a time to make sure I got those hairs too, but with the mask still on.  After repeating this process to my entire head, I let it sit (uncovered) for 30 minutes.  I ended up using half of the 300 ml bottle.  So I still have that plus the other 120 ml bottle I also purchased.  

Step 2:  Apply evenly until hair is saturated without excess!


STEP 3:  Blow Dry Again
Safety Precautions:  Still Active.  After 30 minutes, parted my hair into six sections and blow dried it on medium-low heat until 100% dry.  I also made sure that my hair was completely detangled using the detangling comb, and then went over it again with a paddle brush.  

Step 3:  After 30 minutes, blow dry the hair again.


STEP 4:  Flat Iron
Safety Precautions:  Still Active.  After it was completely dried, I parted my hair again and set my BaBylissPRO Nano Titanium Digital Straightening Flat Iron to 430 degrees (Fahrenheit).  I used this temperature because when I get Brazilian Blowouts my stylist sets her flat iron to 425 - 429 degrees when working on my hair.  I did experiment on using a lower temperature of 410, but the results felt more greasy and appeared less shiny.  I guess it takes some sampling to get the right temperature, but it should absolutely not exceed 450 degrees.  

The instructions say to iron the hair from root to tip using 7 - 12 passes depending on the hair type.  Nine passes seemed to work well for me, as it resulted in soft and very shiny hair.  I performed this step slowly and with a lot of care, because I want to be sure that the Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil fuses correctly with my hair.  

Because I put a lot of effort to ensure that this treatment was applied in a safe environment; my eyes, nose, and throat felt fine.  

BEFORE AND AFTER

Before and After Keratin while Curly - Relaxed Curl Pattern.

Before and After when Straightened.  This is an old before photo because I always forget to take one -_-.


AFTERCARE


As stated before, this is an old-school keratin treatment; meaning no getting the hair wet or tying it back for 72-hours.  During this time, I would loop my hair around my head and wear a tightly sealed shower cap when showering.  I would go to bed with my hair loose and inspect it for kinks in the morning.  Luckily no kinks developed so I didn't need to iron them out.

After the 72 hour period ended, I am now able to wash my hair.  They say sulfate free shampoos help keep the treatment lasting longer, but that really isn't enough.  Shampoos are typically advertised as "sulfate free" but that just means that they might have swapped Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) for another harsh surfactant.  

I generally avoid the following ingredients:  Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Ether Sulfate.  Basically, anything that even remotely sounds like Sulfate, Sulfonate, most Sodiums, etc.

The shampoo I use is SheaMoisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen & Restore Shampoo.  It contains Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate which is a natural sodium salt derived from lactic acid.  It is so very gentle on the hair that it won't strip the treatment from the hair shaft.  I also use lukewarm water on my hair for shampooing - never hot.  

For conditioner, I like to use Ryo Jinsaengbo Super Revital Total Care Conditioner.  It contains ginseng and has a nice herbal scent.  I use it because it's extremely gentle and helps detangle my hair better than any other western conditioner I have tried.  Daeng Gi Meo Ri also makes excellent conditioners.  These Korean brands do use SLS in most of their shampoos though; that's why I only use their conditioners.  I rinse the conditioner thoroughly from my hair with cold water.   

Finally, another very important product to ensure the longevity of my keratin treatments is the Brazilian Blowout Ionic Bonding spray.  It extends the life of the treatment and keeps the hair smooth.  I apply it to damp hair after I get out of the shower.  Honestly, with or without a keratin treatment in my hair - I will never be without this product.  I've tried other keratin sprays from ULTA, but nothing comes close to the Ionic Bonding spray.  


FINAL THOUGHTS


First and foremost, I just wanted to say while the Keratin Research INVERTO ONE treatment was good, the Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil is GREAT.  INVERTO ONE had strange quirks like my hair smelling funky when wet, difficult to detangle, and instructions saying not to allow hair to air dry.  It lasted just under two months because it was "formaldehyde free".  

I feel that the Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil is a far superior formula, and can be safe to use with proper preparation and application.  I'll update this article after a few months regarding it's longevity.  

If I had to compare this treatment to the salon brands, I would put it up there with Peter Coppola (a $250 treatment at the salon), but I don't think it is as good as Brazilian Blowout (a $350 treatment).  The reason for this is my hair wasn't as "frizz free" when I let it air dry compared to Brazilian Blowout.  If I leave it curly, I have to use a light weight leave in conditioner (milk_shake Moisture Plus Whipped Cream is perfect for this).  If I straighten it, the results are wonderful.  

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I'm going to compile my photos of other treatments and write another article comparing Keratin Research INVERTO ONE, Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil, Coppola, and Brazilian Blowout in order to share the before and afters side by side.

UPDATE:  I have used  Keratin Research Original Keratin Hair Treatment with Argan Oil for a second time and this is what I learned:  It is very important not to use too much product during application on Step 2.  When combing the hair with a fine toothed comb, there should be little to no product pushing in front of the comb.  Wipe the comb with each pass until that happens.

If there is too much product during the application, then there will be much more smoke during the second blowdry in Step 3, and will also require more passes during flat ironing as well.  Too much product will result in hair feeling oily after the treatment.  The greasy feeling may go away after a day or two, but if applied correctly the hair should not feel greasy!

Rating
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4 comments :

  1. Replies
    1. It shouldn't if done correctly. I had a lot of experience getting the treatment done to me so I knew what to expect and what temperatures to use. If you're unsure I always recommend getting it done professionally at least once before attempting to do it on your own. I know it's expensive but when it comes to your hair and skin it's best to be cautious.

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  2. Hello! I really appreciate your reviews and had a question. 1) How straight would say this product make your hair compared to Inverto One? I just recently purchased the Inverto One and found it did not make my hair straight but it was less curly and way less frizzy. 2) I know you mentioned with this original formula you still had some frizz but not as much as BB, so could you please compare this to the BB too? 3) Was the BB the formaldehyde version and did it make your hair straight too? Thanks so much :)

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    Replies
    1. Hi Laura! Thank you so much for reaching out! So I feel that the Keratin Research Original formula does result in hair that is more straight and less frizzycompared to the Inverto One. I think that the Inverter One did tone down my frizz and gave me more of a beach wave, but I think that it doesn't last as long as the Original formula and the results with the Original formula are just better. Inverter One also made my hair hard to detangle when it was wet and it smelled funny, but I haven't experienced that with the Original formula.

      It's hard to substitute formaldehyde to get the same effect because I believe it's an important factor for the fusion of the keratin to the hair shaft. In my opinion, any formaldehyde free keratin treatment will just not be as good. But if you apply a formaldehyde treatment to your hair you have to be careful not to over-apply, make sure you're in a very well ventilated room, and your protect your nose and eyes.  I set up a mirror in front of a fully open sliding glass door, with two fans on, the AC on, and a KN95 mask. I also direct the blow dryer / flat iron away from my face.

      I did get Brazilian Blowouts with the formaldehyde formula. When you compare the Keratin Research Original formula to Brazilian Blowout it's still very good but of course nothing will ever be as good as  Brazilian Blowout. The problem is that since my hair is very long, a Brazilian Blowout will cost me $325 starting plus tip. It's a huge difference in price so I've continued with Keratin Research because I'm overall happy with the results. The main difference between the two is I feel like I need to still use a leave-in conditioner with Keratin Research, whereas Brazilian Blowout doesn't need much other products at all.

      Regardless of what treatment choose, I found that it's extremely important to use the Brazilian Blowout Ionic Bonding spray after every wash. It will extend the life of the treatment and also provides the best results compared to without. Even after the treatment wears off, the Ionic Bonding spray still makes my hair less foofy so out of my entire hair routine I feel like it's the most important. I hope this helps! Best of luck to you I'm sure whatever you choose you will look great :-).

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